Today, to escape the Parisian concrete, you exile yourself to the Buttes-Chaumont. But back in the 1800s, the place to be to unwind was a little further east, along the Marne. Nogent, Joinville-le-Pont, Champigny… These names echoed like the Ibiza of today.
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The winning combo: suburban train, fried snacks, and fizzy wine
To understand the birth of this phenomenon, we need to go back to the 1850s. At that time, Paris was bursting at the seams with its brick borders. Luckily, the railroad was just around the corner and finally connected the capital to the loops of la Marne. For workers and the little bourgeoisie, it was freedom: for just a few coins, one could enjoy a round trip to the greenery on Sundays, the only day off of the week.
But actually, why guinguette? It all comes from Ginguet, a little local white wine produced in Belleville or along the banks of the Marne. What’s special about it? It was cheap, a bit fizzy, and most importantly… it wasn’t subject to Paris taxes! Let me tell you, we drank it...mandait au litre to accompany the famous fried fish caught right from the river. People came here to eat with their fingers, enjoy a cold drink, and forget about their bosses.
The Temple of Java and Joyful Chaos
But it’s when night falls that the guinguettes reveal their true nature as open-air clubs. Under the colorful lanterns, everyone gathers on the dance floors. They dance the polka and soon the java, swaying to the tunes of the first accordions brought by the local Italian immigrants. What fascinates at that time is the total social mix, something completely unimaginable in the heart of Paris. Famous painters like Renoir and writers like Maupassant come here for inspiration, leaning on the bar next to the workers from Belleville and the youth of the time.emmes. It's loud, it's joyful, it dances and loves to waltz.
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A total moment of freedom that will forever shape the festive DNA of the Paris region.
After being a bit neglected for a few years, the guinguettes are making a real comeback. As soon as the sunny days arrive, people rush there to escape the concrete of Paris, to drink.
a sous les lampions and disconnecting by the water. More than a century later, the recipe remains unchanged: simplicity, fresh air, and friendliness.The Survivors of the Party: Where to Toast Today?
While most of the party temples have packed up in the face of techno clubs and trendy rooftops, a few legendary spots have stood the test of time. No pretenses here: you’ll find exactly the same atmosphere as back then. It’s a complete return to the roots, the ideal spot to chill on a Sunday afternoon, glass of white in hand and your feet almost in the water.
To experience it for yourself, here are two legendary places that have been buzzing along the banks of the Marne for over a century:
La Guinguette des Maquereaux
Located on the port de plAisance de Nogent, on have a fabulous program: large wooden tables, twinkling lights, and above all, ultra-fresh seafood platters, lovely fresh oysters, and little glasses of white wine. It's the perfect place to enjoy a long aperitif at sunset, lulled by the water and the DJ sets or acoustic concerts that fill the weekend with joy.
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The Guinguette of Martin-Pêcheur Island
A little more secret, this guinguette is tucked away on a small island accessible by a footbridge. Here, the atmosphere is super friendly and a touch bohemian. We eat under the trees, listen to live concerts, and enjoy a true break in wild greenery, cut off from the world.
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More than just a trend, the riverside guinguettes along the Marne show that the desire to let loose, enjoy diversity, and celebrate without pretensions is universal. True relaxation might just be found there, just a few kilometers east of Paris, with your feet in the grass and your heart light.