A true symbol of elegance, the favorite gem of Coco Chanel, the pearl fascinates and dazzles, crossing eras and cultures to establish itself as a timeless icon of refinement and purity. From November 21st to June 1, 2025, it takes center stage at The School of Jewelry Arts' new exhibition – Paris, the capital of pearls – celebrating the unique relationship between the French capital and this precious gem. Dive into the exceptional selection of jewelry and rare archives and explore the captivating history of pearls, discovering how Paris became a crucial hub for trade and creation around this jewel.
A journey through science, history, and jewelry
Did you know that all shells can produce pearls, but their quality...depends on the species and their living conditions? The exhibition begins with an exploration of the origins of the pearl, breaking some well-established myths: no, a grain of sand is not necessary for a pearl to form.
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© René Boivin. Mask Brooch, circa 1910 - 1915. Fine pearls, gold. The Parisian Gallery
Although we often picture pearls as white and perfectly round, the first showcases of the exhibit show us that pearls actually come in an incredible variety of sizes, shapes, and colors: pink, golden, or gray, elongated or baroque, some even reaching several centimeters in diameter. Right at the entrance, a pool of pearls invites visitors to touch and manipulate these natural treasures to better appreciate them. It’s a fascinating mix of scientific and sensory introduction that paves the way for a captivating journey through the history and craftsmanship of pearls, blending refinement with Parisian expertise.
Paris and the Golden Age of Pearls
If pearls are so prized, it’s partly because of their rarity: on average, one shell in a hundred forms a pearl, and among those, only one in a million reaches exceptional jewelry quality. This extreme rarity, combined with their unique luster, has made pearls a symbol of luxury and elegance since the end of the 19th century.
From the late 1860s to the late 1930s, a majority of the pearls harvested in the Arabian Gulf were gradually sent to France, sold in Paris, and set by the most prestigious jewelers of Place Vendôme. Paris then became a hub for the pearl trade thanks to influential figures like the Rosenthal family or Jacques Cartier, who traveled the Gulf’s routes to select the finest gems.
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Exposition Paris, capitale de la Perle © Photo Dylan Dubois
The exhibition doesn’t just celebrate nearly a century of shared history, it also showcases how pearls, whether natural or cultured, have inspired Parisian jewelers and artists from all walks of life. Through almost 100 pieces of jewelry and around fifty precious drawings and iconographic documents, sourced from about twenty of the most prestigious lenders, Paris, capitale de la perle invites us to dive into an era where pearls dominated Parisian fashion, worn as necklaces, brooches, or corsage decorations. You'll discover exceptional pieces, like the six-strand imperial necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels and stunning Art Nouveau creations.Henri Vever, where baroque pearls with unique shapes transform into delicate petals.
A unique dive into the world of pearls up to today
After exploring the Belle Époque, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco movements, the exhibition concludes with contemporary creations, like the Fredy’s – whimsical brooches shaped like little characters with pearl heads – introduced in the 1990s, showcasing that the love story between Paris and pearls continues even today.
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Free and open until June 1, 2025, this exhibition will charm not only jewelry enthusiasts but also those curious to discover the entire history and craftsmanship behind pearls. Be sure to book your spot!
Paris, the capital of pearls
The School of Jewelry Arts (Paris - Hôtel de Mercy-Argenteau)
16 bis, Boulevard Montmartre – 9th
From November 21, 2024, to June 1, 2025
Open Tuesday to Sunday from 11 AM to 7 PM, except on public holidays
Late night on Thursdays until 9 PM
Free entry with reservation
More info and reservations
