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We tried: the Coulmes massif, a treasure of nature and disconnection 2 hours away from Lyon

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The Editor

Between 800 and 1475 meters above sea level, the Coulmes massif is a true forest paradise that sits in the heart of the majestic Vercors Regional Natural Park in Isère. Among beech and conifer trees, the variety of species blends with the changing seasons to offer a constantly renewed landscape, where tranquility reigns supreme to provide us with a breathtakingly... and incredibly quiet natural spectacle.


© Edith Descorps

Summer guinguette and international independent micro-museum of mail art

To guide you in your discovery of this immense wild space, we tested a stay sprinkled with beautiful addresses and expeditions for you. And because indulging in delicious treats accompanies us on each of our getaways, we started our adventure by refueling outdoors at L'Amusette in the town of Presles. This summer guinguette (open on weekends from May 8th and on weekends in September, and from early July to early September from Wednesday to Sunday) offers a friendly atmosphere to enjoy an ice cream, a tartine, or a brunch, all accompanied by concerts and family activities.

With a full belly, it's time for discovery! In the charming town of Rencurel, another treasure awaits us: the MIAP, an international and independent micro-museum of postal art. Set in a small, charming and picturesque chalet, this unusual place houses an amazing collection of 300 artworks from around the world, all sent by post. A fascinating dive into the world of mail art that we highly recommend during your getaway to Coulmes.

Journey to the Center of the Earth

As night fell, a question nagged at us: "Why sleep on the surface when you can do it in the depths of the Earth?" So we booked an underground bivouac night in a cave offered by Vertical Aventure! Meet us in Rencurel for a unique adventure: a descent into the bowels of the earth in speleological gear through a tunnel with 40 meters of negative elevation, followed by setting up a temporary camp and enjoying a delicious Savoyard dinner (fondue-based, of course) in the heart of the darkness. After a restful night of sleep cuddled in our sleeping bags (particularly rejuvenating, by the way), breakfast is served to us, still at the bottom of the cave, before we pack up the equipment to head back to the surface. A once-in-a-lifetime experience that we'll never forget!

An unique experience that will leave us with unforgettable memories for a long time...

.© Vertical Aventure – Photo by Rose Brasselet

After replenishing our strength in the earth's depths, we end our natural and sporty journey with a hike worth the detour. Starting from Malleval-en-Vercors, a charming small village and historic site of the Resistance in Vercors, we set off for the Col de Neurre perched at 1231m altitude. To reach it, we take a road that overlooks the deep Nan gorges and offers a sublime view of the Isère valley.


© Audrey Gusman

More broadly, the Coulmes massif has a simple yet magical power: it offers us a total and restorative disconnection. With very little phone and internet network coverage throughout the area, the massif reconnects us to nature, wild energies, and the gentle symphony of birds and small animals that have made it their home. A great way to clear your mind and recharge to start fresh.

© Audrey Gusman


Find out more about the Coulmes massif in the heart of Vercors and about the Coulmes ski resort