During its grand anniversary evening at the City Hall of Paris, Fooding celebrated 25 years of championing free cuisines, liberated from the stiff codes of traditional guides. And among the awards given, it's a local gem that took home the prize. La Virée, in the 3rd arrondissement, snags the crown for the best bistro of 2025, propelling Lyon even higher in the galaxy of French gastronomy.
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For a quarter of a century, Fooding has been shining a spotlight on wonderfully vibrant dining spots, often overlooked by traditional paths. No starched tablecloths or formalities here: instead, it rewards instinct, boldness, and spontaneity. It's no surprise that La Virée has made its mark in this scene. The restaurant ticks all the boxes of a liberated, sincere cuisine that is deeply rooted in its time.
La Virée: an old bouchon transformed into an irresistible neobistro
Fooding describes the place as a “truly delightful neobistro,” and it’s hard to argue as the concept is as zingy as the location. Located in a former bouchon dating back to 1952, Mathias Beguin and MattLallemant has reimagined everything without wiping away the soul of the place. Shiny terrazzo flooring, orange tables straight out of a seventies decor, an old-school bar that sets the vibe: La Virée embraces this reinvented retro charm that makes you want to linger.
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A kitchen that could become the HQ for the people of Lyon
Having passed through sharp establishments like Aux Deux Amis, Substrat, Robert, or Bel Ami, the two Matthias are whipping up a cuisine full of personality here, capable of waking up even a Lyon that Fooding describes as "a rumbling stove." According to the guide, this spot could very well become the new HQ for the neighborhood – and that's far from an exaggeration.
Address: 21 Rue Jean Larrivé, 69003 Lyon, France